Archive for the 'Nairobi' Category

Nairobi: Burning DVDs

Another weekend, another adventure.

On Tuesday night I jumped on the train to Nairobi, Second Class, and despite a rocky start (the engine car was missing, but it eventually showed up almost two hours late), things went pretty smoothly.  On Wednesday I got my Swine Flu shot while visiting the Peace Corps office, and then I had meetings on Thursday and Friday, during which time I burnt a number of DVDs which will be used as samples in the near future for this project.

My coworker on the project was kind enough to let me stay with her instead of paying for a hotel (since Peace Corps only covers travel costs for medical issues, required events, and anything involving HIV/AIDS, and my trip doesn’t meet any of those requirements).  I didn’t take any pictures of the inside of the apartment, but trust me, it was pretty cool, since it had been painted with a lot of green, much like the apartment I left behind in Santa Monica.  Just like home, except with a bigger kitchen and rationed water.  Here’s the outside:

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While in Nairobi I also saw a volunteer who was a day away from hopping on a plane back to America.  Sad to see her go (again), since I actually went to Malindi last weekend to say goodbye, but then we ended up being in Nairobi at the same time for a second goodbye.  We went with a group and ate a good dinner.

I left for Mombasa by bus on Saturday morning, which, much like the train, was pretty uneventful, and involved much sleeping, but it unfortunately had an obnoxious end to it.  As I stepped off the bus in Mombasa, I realized that my phone wasn’t in my pocket!  The bus had already started moving so I immediately grabbed some transport to follow the bus to the station, but by the time I got there, they told me the bus had already gone to another station, “not far,” and then I ended up leaving Mombasa island completely as my quest led me out past the airport.  The employees at the bus office were completely unhelpful, and my gut feeling is that they actually stole my phone when I told them where my seat was, since they wouldn’t let me check for myself, and the guy I talked to first made a mysterious disappearance after he “looked for it.”  I wasn’t surprised—I figured it was as good as gone as soon as I realized it wasn’t in my pocket—but it was worth a shot.  Asking the bus people if they saw it is like asking the lions in the zoo if they found the steak left in their cage.  “Really, a steak?  Where exactly did you say you left it?  I’ll go check…”  Oh well.

To top it all off, I didn’t have enough to pay the driver who followed the bus “not far” to the distant outskirts of the suburbs and back, and I ended up giving him some Tanzanian shillings to calm him down.  What a stupid night.

So anyway, don’t bother calling my old Safaricom number, since it will just connect you to some local thieves, so try the Zain number (listed at right) instead.  I’ll be using it for the time being on my backup phone.

Here’s the last picture I ever took while I still had my trusty Nokia 6300 in my pocket.  We had some good times together, me and that phone.  Despite the fact that I lost it in Mombasa, I blame Nairobi anyway.

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ErinRose in Kenya, Part 3!

Before we resume our regular programming (meaning longer, rambling, more verbose passages of text), here’s another round of pictures, courtesy mostly of ErinRose, who was here until Sunday.

This one’s for you Elise, from the Nairobi nature walk:

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ErinRose and I ate lunch near the rhino and saw dozens of baboons wander past us:

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The guide told me I didn’t tip enough after being led into the cheetah cage for this pic.  Apparently the eight guys who sit around the cage need to split the tips between them.  I’m mean so I still didn’t tip more:

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Back at school, ErinRose and my counterpart and I handed out various undergarments that were sent from America by a previous volunteer’s friends and family:

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Doing what I do best in a plane to Lamu:

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Me taking a picture in Lamu.

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Here I am “explaining” a science experiment (poking holes in paper to reveal the crescent-shaped spot on the shadow caused by the eclipse) to my vocational students, another teacher, and some others.  I had never heard of this trick and wasn’t even aware that there was an eclipse happening, but another volunteer called me during the eclipse and explained how it worked and insisted that I must go show it to some students.  ErinRose knew the trick, too, so she poked the holes.  It was pretty cool, and I still don’t totally understand why it works at all:

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Malaria Meds and Nairobbery

So for a little under a week now I’ve been in Nairobi for my one-year medical and dental checkup.  Conclusions:

  • I don’t have cavities.
  • I don’t have TB.
  • I have a normal heartbeat.

None of these things were actually in doubt, but that’s just about all that was tested.

I also finally changed my malaria medicine from Mefloquine to Doxycycline.  I did this for two reasons:

  1. Mefloquine seems to me to be bad news in general.  Even if you don’t get any of the common side effects that ~30% of its users report (vivid dreams, hallucinations, anxiety), it still accumulates in your nervous system, where it remains long after you stop taking it, just waiting for something traumatic to happen to trigger who-knows-what residual side effects.  The Peace Corps uses it as the default Malaria prophylactic, and they only switch volunteers to another medicine if problems are experienced or expected.  The US Army actually used to have the same policy, but they changed it due to the overwhelming number of problems, so they now default to Doxy.  This should be reason enough not to take it, but to make the problem worse…
  2. I hallucinated a little bit a few months ago.  This was a bit unnerving, although not at dramatic as it might sound at first.  Basically, I have a constant anxiety about people coming into my house.  When Deaf children or teachers want me to come to the door, they have to clang the metal gate to get my attention, but it’s a faint sound and it blends into the background noise of the metal workshop across the street.  It’s very common that I go to answer the door and no one is there, and vice versa, I don’t think anyone is there, so they grow impatient and they reach around, open the gate, and come right up to my open door, and if I’m napping, kids have even walked all the way into my bedroom and stood there until I’ve woken up, which can be startling, especially because I’m rarely decent when I nap in this equatorial heat.  I’ve also had experiences where I’ve turned the corner from the kitchen and seen a student standing in my living room or in the doorway; again, rather startling.  Add Mefloquine to the mix and not only does the anxiety level go up, but also I started turning corners and out of the corner of my eye, seeing people standing there, watching me, but when I’d turn to see who it is, I’d realize that I was just imagining it.  The worst was when I woke up and thought for a spilt second that a man was standing in the corner of my room.

I hadn’t had any of these hallucinations for a while, but I when I’d think about the general reasons to stop taking it, it seemed that it would be the best thing to do.  So now I’m on Doxy, which means I need to take a daily pill and I need to be more vigilant about sunscreen.  But it also means my complexion will improve!  Check out the Wikipedia page on Mefloquine if you’re taking it and I’ve worried you.

In other news, Nairobi seems to be just as dangerous a place as ever.  I had dinner last night with one of the newer volunteers, who is recovering from a mugging that he doesn’t even remember.  The leading theory at the moment is that he was smashed in the face repeatedly with rocks before he had a chance to see what was happening.  In any case, he looks good considering, and while he recovers, Peace Corps has put him up in, essentially, a mansion (3 stories, 3 full baths, hot running water, full-time security guard, etc).  I already err on the side of taking taxis more often than necessary, but now I feel even more strongly about not walking alone in Nairobi.  Prior to this event, it was easy to imagine myself reasoning with the muggers, slowly handing over money, phone, etc, to avoid any violence, but now that scenario has been thrown thrown right out the window.  The fact that he hid money in his shoe didn’t help this particular volunteer avoid violence. (Although it did help him with the cab fare after he regained consciousness… and yes, the taxi driver did charge him.)

I’m not sure what the percentages are, but it seems like at least one volunteer is mugged every month in Nairobi, although this is the worst one I’ve heard of so far.  I may regret sharing this story and worrying people, especially since I may soon be spending more time in Nairobi, but trust me— I won’t be walking alone at night, or even at dusk!

I don’t have any Nairobi pictures to go along with this post’s prose, since I lent my camera to a friend, but here’s one I took of a fellow volunteer in Malindi, where I spent a couple days before we travelled to Nairobi together:

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3 Responses to “Malaria Meds and Nairobbery”


  • Paul:

    I am COO of Water Charity, a 501(c)(3) nonprofit that does water, sanitation, and public health projects worldwide. We recently started a new initiative, Appropriate Projects, to fund small water and sanitation projects very quickly.

    I am a Returned Peace Corps Volunteer (Bolivia ’66-’68), and am well aware of the difficulties Volunteers face in the field. Appropriate Projects is an addition to our regular Water Charity model that is allowing us to provide project resources to PCVs in the field immediately.

    Often there is that little project that must be done now (before the rains start, before school begins, or in response to a critical need), but there are no funds available. Traditional funding sources are cumbersome, and there are long forms, detailed requirements, limited resources, and long delays.

    PCVs working in water and sanitation usually have potential projects lined up. For those working in other program areas, there may be water components to their projects, or improvements needed where they work or teach.

    Sample projects may be: a rainwater catchment, handwashing stations for a school, water for a clinic, piping, tanks, pumps, sinks, latrines, wells, etc.

    We like to “finish” projects that have been started, and “fix” things that have ceased to function.

    We encourage follow-up projects that expand upon the successful completion of the first small project.

    If you have a project in mind, please fill out the application form. We want this to be easy for you, so we have developed a simple form that you can fill out in one sitting.

    If you have any questions about the appropriateness of your project, or you need some time to get it together, just let us know.

    We pre-fund projects, so you don’t have to wait around for donations to roll in.

    If you do not have a project that qualifies, please pass this message on to your fellow Volunteers who may have an interest. Finally, if this initiative resonates with you, please let others know what we are doing through your social networks, websites, and blogs.

    I look forward to hearing from you.

    Regards,

    Averill Strasser

    Appropriate Projects
    http://appropriateprojects.com

    Water Charity
    http://watercharity.org

  • This entry was really fascinating. (100% not being sarcastic.)

  • look ma, no cavities! (finally). Glad you’re on doxy now.

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