Archive for the 'Mombasa' Category

Scary Stories to Tell in Mombasa

This story is the reason that I had originally decided to hold off on updating my blog for a while.  There were a few people who I wanted to tell the story to personally first, so they wouldn’t read about it and get worried.  It’s actually a pretty short story, and it goes like this:

A few months ago a friend and I were riding in a matatu.  We had gone out a late dinner because we were in the library with my students until their bedtime (9PM).  Dinner was good, and we were on our way back.  We got off the matatu at its normal stop closest to my house, at the intersection of my school’s street and the nearby main road.  Within a matter a seconds of our matatu driving away, I noticed that a man was walking toward me.  His body language suggested that he was adamant about something, but he said nothing, and did nothing initially but grab my arm.  Arm-grabbing is much more common here, generally speaking, so it was easy to imagine that this could have been a drunk or crazy man who could just be ignored.  It became clear rather quickly, however, that this was not the case, and the man was refusing to let go of me, and was in fact pulling me off of the sidewalk and into the road, and, in fact, toward the back of a truck.  I looked over at my friend, and another man was pulling him toward the truck as well.  At this point, my struggling became more spastic and I shouted things like “What are you doing?” and “This is not OK!”  It was also around this time that I saw a police officer on the sidewalk, watching.  Of course I only had a moment to process this, and by this point the struggle was fully in the middle of the road, and due to some turn of events, I found myself free of my abductor.  I ran over to my friend, who was a this point missing his shirt, which had been pulled off by the man who was still dragging him toward the truck.  I sloppily threw the weight of my arms onto his, so that the two people separated and my friend fell onto the asphalt.  He got up and wisely announced, “Paul, RUN!”  So I took off the one sandal I still had on my feet and we ran back to my school, about a minute away.

The end.

Not exactly, of course.  There was some followup with Peace Corps and the police, and the most likely explanation for the whole thing was that the police hire goons to hang off the backs of trucks and capture people without warning or explanation, and then take them to jail to demand bribes, which is reassuring, since kidnappings have occurred in Kenya’s capital, but the explanation is only somewhat reassuring, since it changes my opinion of my neighborhood police from incompetent to malicious.

I did let this event bother me for some time, and I still fear that I might punch someone who grabs me in town, even if they just want to sell me some trousers.  That being said, at the time of this writing, it’s just a story long past, and it doesn’t really affect my day-to-day except that I favor door-to-door transportation after the sun goes down.

The good news is that the morning after this happened, we went back to the scene of the crime and I recovered my sandal and my friend got his shirt back as well.  So nothing was lost, and knowledge was gained… a win-win!

7 Responses to “Scary Stories to Tell in Mombasa”


  • Ho. Lee. Crap.

    Well I’m glad you’re all right, man…I’d been wondering why you hadn’t updated the blog in a while. Hope everything is going well otherwise…

    By the way, around when will you be returning to the US? Seems like it’s not too far off…

  • Missed your blog updates, but I was expecting this one so you could move on to other “stories”. I imagine this scenario clearly, many times (as I have been there). Hope the rest of the year brings better experiences. Leaving for the Italian festival in 1/2 hour XOXOXOXOXOXO

  • This is the third such story I have heard this month – specifically of the Mombasa police harassing and even trying to capture foreigners. Perhaps its time for a KTN feature.

    Glad you are ok.

  • Hi Paul,

    Im sorry to hear about your frightening experience, ive seen this happen before in Kongowea, Mombasa. Where exactly did this happen? Send me an mail Paul, would be interesting to chat to you.

    Im a friend of Will Ruddick’s, an Irish VSO volunteer and something similar happened to me last december. I live beside the central post office in Mombasa and, foolishly left my apartment alone at 12.30am to buy credit outside the central post office. Two uniformed cops with machine guns came up from an alley way and started aggressively shouting at me, accusing me of smoking weed, refusing to identify themselves, they tried to plant something in my pocket and then tried to drag me down a dark alleyway. I was really frightened at this stage so I defended myself and got free and I managed to run onto the lit street but they caught me again. I created a big scene, this subdued them a bit, they hand cuffed me, brought me to the police station, interrogated and threatened me and finally released me. Im pursuing the case now with a human rights NGO as i got these thug’s names and i dont want them to do this again.

    As safe an all as Mombasa is, the cops are the ones you gotta watch out for, especially at night, try not to be alone although, it didn’t help Paul much!! Pole!

  • Uncle Joe Blair

    Paul, I’m glad you are ok. I can’t image how scared you must have been. Stay safe, we will keep you in our prayers.

  • Man, that’s a crazy story. I can’t believe that kinda stuff happens in mombasa! who knew!

  • I am Kenyan, I lived in Mombasa for 5 years and this has never happened to me or anyone I know.

    1. Don’t go walking around at 2 am
    2. When someone grabs your hand or gets too close for comfort shout and raise absolute hell.
    3. The police are not your friends, stay away from them.

    Stay safe

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Did a Whole Term Just Fly By?

In fact, yes.

Tomorrow will be the last day of classes for this term, followed by exams week.  I’ll be administering the same exams as last term, maybe just with the questions reordered, since it will provide an easy way to track progress.  This means, then, that tomorrow is the last real day of the term!

That’s not to say that it’s been a tough week, though, because it hasn’t.  On Tuesday morning I had a hard time opening my left eye, which is not normal.  A look in the mirror revealed that either I was transforming in the Toxic Avenger, or I had an eye infection.  As it turns out, I’ll never know, because the eye drops I stopped whatever it was from progressing.

It turns out that I wasn’t alone though—there had been a breakout at the school, with other teachers, students, even the cooks having disgusting, swollen red eyes.  I decided to stay home and wallow, and up until today (Thursday), I haven’t really interacted with my own students, since the thing seems highly contagious.

I did add a pictures section to the blog while I was hiding out in my house.  You should check it out, especially those of you who skim my blog and tolerate my ramblings just in case I post any more animal photos—now you can see all my new pictures consolidated in one place!  The link is the “Pics” tab, toward the top of the site.

I wasn’t a total blog nerd, though.  I snuck out yesterday evening and I saw Up in the Air, which was a good flick, but it made me a bit sad and lonely.  After the movie I shared a tuk-tuk back to town with a Chinese girl going to a nightclub.  The ride was a real language test.  Between me (English), her (Mandarin?), and the tuk-tuk driver (Swahili), we could barely communicate at all.  I did establish that she moved to Kenya to sell mobile phones, and/or she wanted my mobile number.  Maybe both.  Ironically, she’ll have to get in line, because the girl who works at the neighborhood Nokia shop just sent me a text message saying that she misses my “cute face!”  (It’s a long story, but don’t worry, her SMS was completely strange and unwarranted.)

So the adventures continue in Kenya.  Speaking of which, I’ll probably be taking a real vacation soon, and heading west to Uganda to raft the Nile, and then down to Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of the Congo!  The plans aren’t done, but stay tuned.

2 Responses to “Did a Whole Term Just Fly By?”


  • Paul – this is really from me, mom. Your corruption article really made me sad but I am glad that you are planning on going outside of Kenya on what sounds like a great trip. take lots of pics. Liked your goggle pics too

  • looks like erinrose has some competition!

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How Does Corruption Affect Volunteers?

Corruption is part of day-to-day life in Kenya, and it’s a topic I’ve largely avoided, since as a Peace Corps Volunteer blogger, it’s important to respect the Peace Corp’s partner organizations by not talking about the terrible things they do.

I will say this, though: corruption lowers my motivation.

Corruption in education exists on different scales, and both have been in the news recently.  This is great, because rather than citing my own experiences that might get me (or others) into trouble, I can just talk current events.  Let’s start with big time corruption.

Britain just announced that it is halting a payment of $30 million that would have gone to the Kenya Ministry of Education.  It wasn’t that long ago that they withheld $16 million, claiming that Kenya stole a lot of the last round of money, which triggered the Kenyan government to “look into it” and fire some middle management.  The upper levels of government, including the Minister of Education, were left untouched.  Apparently unsatisfied with the token effort, the US followed England’s lead and halted their own $7 contribution.  This is a total of over $50 million dollars being withheld because England and America are pretty sure that the Kenyan government will just steal it.

To put that amount of money in perspective, I spent a recent afternoon crunching numbers with my counterpart, and we concluded that the amount of money collected by our school in order to house, feed, and teach a student for an entire year, including their dorm fees and three meals a day, was about $200.  At that price, England and the US are withholding enough money to cover over 250,000 such students!  Of course, that number of students would imply that Kenya doesn’t steal the money, which based on the accusations, it seems they would.

As a volunteer teacher here, these numbers depress me.  I sometimes fantasize about building a computer lab for my school, for example, but I feel silly and naive when I consider the fact that, if money actually was used correctly year after year, which it would be if people actually cared about education, the school would already have a computer lab!

This brings the topic to small-time corruption, recently dubbed “Quiet Corruption” by the World Bank in their assessment of the abysmal state of the on-the-ground education effort in Africa.  It’s a great essay and I highly recommend reading it.  It quantifies what most volunteers already discuss with each other constantly: Kenyan teachers don’t care.  An estimated 20% of teachers are absent at any given time.  An additional 12% are on school grounds, but not in the classroom when they should be.  The study doesn’t even get into what percent of the teachers are in the classroom, but talking on the cell phone, reading the newspaper, conversing with the teachers who are avoiding their classes, or sleeping.  I imagine if they could quantify that, it would paint an even more depressing picture.

I believe these numbers, and if anything I think they may be optimistic.  This is the other problem when considering a project like building a computer lab: if the teachers don’t care enough to teach, why would they put in the time to make use of the lab?  And for that matter, as is discussed in the World Bank essay, the computers themselves have a good chance of being resold by the teachers after I leave, so why bother?

This report not only confirms my own doubts, but it makes me think more specifically about the sad state of early education here.  When I was training in Loitokitok, I read a book called “The First Days of School,” which introduced me to the concept of “Academic Learning Time,” the idea that you have your scheduled class time, and then you have the percent of that time that the teacher and the students are actually there together, and a percentage of that time when the teacher is actually “teaching,” and then a percentage of that time that the students are paying attention, and then finally, a percentage of that time where they are actually learning anything.  When you consider that before fourth grade, the school day here ends before lunch, that the teacher likely is not familiar with the students’ first language, that the teacher is often absent or tardy, the “Academic Learning Time” approaches zero, even if the teacher is motivated, which is unlikely.

So I must admit that my motivation for build a computer lab, just like the “Academic Learning Time” concept, also approaches zero.

I hear this struggle from other volunteers all time, with questions like: “Why should I work my butt off if I’m surrounded by teachers who don’t care enough to even show up?”  “Why aren’t they just fired?” (The World Bank blames the teachers unions for that one.)  “Why should I bring in money from the US if they’re already pocketing the money that’s supposed to go to the kids?”

Well, the short answer is to do what you need to do to motivate yourself.  I can only speak for myself, and I admit that I’ve psyched myself out of doing big projects like the computer lab.  I refuse to feed money into a system I don’t trust, and that’s how I end up putting so much time into a floppy disk I can use in the old computers that have no value rather than into buying newer computers that might be locked up or resold after I leave.

I do, however, find that I can put my time into the classroom without feeling like I’m being taken advantage of.  (Other volunteers are given a heavy load so that the teachers can have more time to relax in the break room—I’m lucky that’s not my situation.)  I can also do after-school activities without feeling like my time is politicized, and that is perhaps the biggest safe haven for the de-motivated volunteer who sees corruption all around and starts feeling more angry than hopeful.  After-school activities help no one but the students, and for that reason my daily library/computer time is often the most pure, and most satisfying, part of the day.

If this topic interests you at all, go read the World Bank essay!

2 Responses to “How Does Corruption Affect Volunteers?”


  • Amen Paul, thanks for saying what we all feel. Although I must say I do know a few ( well more like one and a half) teachers who actually go to every class, and are never tardy, and actually teach, I wonder how in the world they keep up their motivation, considering they have been at this for years! This makes a bit more motivated. PS Answer your phone!

  • :( i feel u. just do the best with what you are given, change what you can, and accept the rest as what it is.

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