Archive for the 'Kilifi' Category

Slump and Bump

I’d be lying if I said I’ve been too busy to update my blog recently.  To be honest, I’ve been in a bit of a slump.

It might be health-related.  I managed to beat the giardia without the help of any medicine, but that was quickly replaced by a scary looking bump on my arm: a bug bite-turned-folliculitus-turned-staph infection that I’ve been taking antibiotics for ever since I went to the hospital last week, but nonetheless it stubbornly remains.  I think about how many infected wounds I see at the school here, and it’s no wonder that I managed to get one myself.  At least mine is being treated, but  I worry that this is a side effect of my tiny bucket baths, in which I use about three liters of water each day due to the shortage.  Perhaps my technique is not refined, so I’m not keeping clean enough?  Anyhow, I bought a more aggressive antiseptic to mix with my bath water.  (The popular brand here is for this is Dettol.)

The other problem may be isolation.  I talk to ErinRose every day, bless her heart, but otherwise I just have the Internet, and spending a lot of time on the Internet isn’t good for anybody.  With the exception of that daily phone call, I often pass entire days without speaking at all.  This doesn’t mean I’m not communicating—of course I’m signing with my students, but I’m still far from mastering sign language, so it doesn’t leave me feeling as connected as English does.

It also may be my frustration with the progress at work.  I have days when I do feel good about my time in the classrooms, but I also have days when I feel like no amount of confidence can turn me into a good teacher.  I have no idea how I ever could have had so many good teachers in my life.  It’s such an incredibly difficult job that I’m lucky I even had one.

The newest woodshop students are the source of much of my anxiety.  One is the brightest in the class, but he’s cocky and just further widens the range of abilities that I need to cater to.  The other student is the furthest behind, and he has one amazing ability: he’s really good at making me believe that he understands what I’m teaching.  Whatever I explain to him, he will sign back to me, quite accurately, indicating that he understands, then he will look down very intently at his paper, lifting his pencil as if about to write something, hovering it above the paper as if deep in thought, then he will wait for me to turn away, at which point he relaxes.  If I look back again, he’ll be sharpening his pencil with a razor blade, telling me that the pencil tip broke, and that after he sharpens it again, he’ll get back to work.  He can stall like this for hours, and it’s a tragedy, because he’s great at it, and it clearly is the product of years of practice, in which he’s tricked all his teachers into not teaching him.

Truth be told, on days when I’m feeling tired and defeated, I want to believe him.  But I can’t fall for that trap, because it’s a mirror of the larger problem here, which is the self-delusion of the entire network of aid organizations, in which solving real problems becomes so daunting that it becomes good enough to get the right statistics to show success, get a good photo op, and call it a day.  But I’ll leave this distressing topic for another time.

Enough of all this introspective business.  Here’s a video of some students practicing a poem for a local competition.  It’s signed word-for-word from the written poem, meaning that many of the kids don’t even know what they’re signing, but it’s an interesting peek into Deaf poetry if you’ve never seen it before.  That’s my yellow house in the background, and the girl in the foreground is the one that I tutor after school to show her how to use her laptop.

More recently, on July 3, I finished reading my book about all the US presidents, which gives all their mini-biographies in chronological order.  It was a dry read, full of bulleted lists, but fascinating.  Inspirational and depressing at the same time… if I’m going to be president, it looks like I either need to join the military or become a lawyer.

To celebrate my independence from this dense work of nonfiction, on July 4 I was coaxed out of town for the day (a rare event), and I left home in the morning to go to Kilifi, which is an hour north via matatu.  As I walked from my home to the matatu stage, I stumbled upon a July 4 parade.  I love surprise parades, and they appear to love me, seeking me out no matter where I go.

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Here we are in Kilifi.  That’s me on the left, holding the camera.  We’re in a tuk tuk (3-wheeled motorcycle), and because it’s raining outside, there is extra plastic on the sides to protect us, as you can see.  Kenyans take the rain very seriously.  I would make a joke about wicked witches melting, but witchcraft is taken very serious here so I won’t.

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When I got home I was welcomed by my rusty gate, which immediately fell off its hinge and refused to close.  Children could therefore enter my courtyard freely to peek in my windows or watch me bathe.  I did not like this idea, so I notified the school who promptly fetched the local welding duo.  They were here a few hours later, having pushed the welding equipment across town in a giant wooden cart, as is customary.  What was exciting to me was that I saw my first extension cord in Kenya, although as you can see, it’s just raw wire jammed into the outlet.

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I am baffled that the welder didn’t wear glasses.  Sparks literally danced along his arm as he worked.

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I was warned that if I looked into the light I would die, so, despite my disbelief, I squinted at the light, indirectly, through my camera.  I was fascinated later by the distortion the bursts of light caused in the photos.  That’s a really bright light.  Probably good that they warned me, even if I would have survived.

8 Responses to “Slump and Bump”


  • hmmmmmmmmmm so our calling card has been used up so i will get on top of that. AS for you….u can call me u know if u want to talk some english. But i will try to call u more as well. Although everytime i call u i feel like ur not in the mood to chat, but I guess it is our job to force those unfamiliar words out of you. I love you.

  • Hi Paul, I stumbled across your blog and loved the video of the kids signing their poem! Can you post the English words to the poem? It looks like they are signing some ASL but I see a few signs I don’t recognize…which must be KSL?? I am going to Kenya in Sept and will be visiting a school for the deaf…it would be great to pick up a few more KSL signs from your video. I am fluent in ASL but know very little KSL. Good luck with teaching and hang in there!

  • Congratulations on the ability to fight off giardia without medication, your building up quite an immune system. I agree that finally getting some meds for the arm was a good idea, as staph infection’s are not a good idea to build an immunity to. Loved the picture of the extension cord, and unused ground wire! Lastly, I think for the blog you should take-up as a hobby some kind of extreme sport, maybe like base jumping or street luge. I think that would give the added bit that is really missing from your posts! Maybe tuk tuk racing with 400 pounds of crap on the roof. ;)

  • i see charolettos!!!!

    she looks good! give her my loves. i misses her so!

  • Paul = do you know what the poem is about? it seems pretty repetitive. How is your student imposter doing? I like your workbook idea although the apples scare me. To be president, you at least need to join the Masons. love, mom

  • I’ll try to get a copy of the official poem lyrics tomorrow. I only pick up parts of it because it has a lot of Signed English in it that no one actually uses in school except for “reading” from the board. I’ll consider the Masons.

  • Funny how we are worlds apart but still have much in common. They have the 3-wheeled motorcycle taxis here (moto taxis) and people also weld without eye protection. They then come inside with super red eyes and have to use lots of eye drops! Hope that your arm gets better!

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Catching up

So much has happened since my last post that it seems like the best thing to do it just show you a lot of photos.

After my stop at a fellow volunteer’s in Embu (“Fun-bu,” as she calls it), we moved as a group to a nearby volunteer’s site, which is an amazing Deaf school.  (After we left, apparently this area of Kenya became a bit rough because the matatu owners stopped paying for local “protection,” and some people’s limbs were cut off.)  Here’s the school:

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Just look at that gardening!  Apparently they have an awesome computer lab, too.  This is the one school that performs consistently above the guessing average on their standardized tests, and it was run for many years by a former Peace Corps volunteer who decided to stay.  A sad site at the school was a deaf-blind child who was not picked up by his parents, so he was staying there for the whole month.

After one night there, it was off to Nairobi for more Peace Corps training.  This mostly consisted of Powerpoint-style presentations for a large group, although we split off into smaller groups for the afternoons.  The highlight was catching the kitchen on fire during the cooking seminar.  Let’s peek into the kitchen:

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Yes that is a nun.  For some reason out hotel was run by nuns.  While in Nairobi I did things I can’t do in Mombasa, namely I ate sushi and tortilla chips (but not together).

At the end of training ErinRose flew into Nairobi and we traveled the next day back to the coast with a good number of Deaf Ed volunteers.  Here were are in front of One Love Island, where we camped and ate delicious calamari:

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Here is the closest village, where one of the business volunteers live.  This place basically has nothing in common with Mombasa, even though it’s only a few hours away.  A telling example of this is that when we walked through the village, children ran up to us with their palms out and open.  I instinctively ignored them, because I see lots of begging children ever day who will grab my arm if not my pocket if I stick around too long.  The volunteer saw this and said something to the effect of, “This is a local greeting.  Give them your hand and they will kiss it.”  Which is what happened.  I was humbled and astounded.

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Over the next few days we worked our way back down the coast, and I got to play tourist for a bit, which was amazing, but I’m not used to A/C anymore so I got a cold.  Here’s a view from our room in Kilifi.  Its hard to see, but there is a pool and the ocean is behind it.

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Here’s a look out of the side of a tuk-tuk (three-wheeled covered motorcycle) on the drive into town from the hotel:

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ErinRose took this one while the group was idling after snorkeling.  While she was taking pictures, I still had the taste of vomit in my mouth from getting seasick.  It was worth it, though, because I saw a puffer fish.  And a humuhumunukunukuapuaa.  I surprised even myself that I remembered that fish’s name from long-ago Hawaii snorkeling.

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And here’s our last group dinner before we all went our separate ways:

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As it turned out, back in Mombasa, the first week of school was a a false alarm, since a lot of the kids weren’t back from break yet and it is apparently customary to not hold classes until more show up, so ErinRose and I has a surreal week in Mombasa, where I lived a life of luxury just minutes away from my home where my toilet is a hole in the ground and my bath is a bucket.

Here is one of the places we stayed (that’s the Mombasa bay out the window—I live just on the other side of it):

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Monkeys on the patio (I’m no camera quickdraw, unfortunately):

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Is this luxury, or just bizarre?  A fish tank as the water source for the urinal.

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The second week of school just finished (although it was the first week where I actually taught anything), and things are going well.  I bought a printer finally and I’ve been making lots of worksheets for my classes.  I also have been putting to use many of the items that people have been generously sharing.  Vocabulary Bingo in particular was a gigantic hit!

So there’s a one-month summary for you.  Now it’s back to normal.

18 Responses to “Catching up”


  • I’m so glad you’re alive! Not that I thought you weren’t, just that I missed updates. Sounds like things are lookin’ good! I saw John Dion a few weeks ago in LA, made me miss you.

  • Carolyn Sweeney

    What a cool Blog! We wish you well Paul! Erin Rose told me about what a wonderful time she had with you. I know she misses you so much. When Erin Rose told me about the stars at night, I could picture them in my mind- gave me goosebumps! She has such a way of describing things.. theres an English major for you.:)
    Take care!
    Carolyn ( ER’s Best Friend )

  • Well, glad to hear everything is well,and your back to blogging and teaching. I managed to remove the 12 GB’s of Knoppix’s distros from Erin Rose’s laptop, so her machine would not crash anymore, and I heard a rumor that you compiled your first code, or at least something like that. Very Nice!

    • You can see how paying by the MB was a problem for me when I’m downloading so much. More specifically with the coding, I compiled my first assembly program! I modified an open source DOS TSR to help in the library.

  • Fun-bu is not the same without you and Mercer.Although I kind of like it better, since I was away so long! What ever happened to the floppy disk? Please do share this vocab bingo! When you come to Nairobi I have a whole block of velveeta we can make nachos!!!

  • K, I’m not really sure where I’m supposed to post this, but I just wanted to say Happy Birthday! Hope all is well over there–you are missed at UBH’s Homework Clubs! :) Take care.

  • VIRGINIA AVENUE UPDATES:

    1) My computer went nutso on me, so I put in a new hard drive and reinstalled XP per your instructions before you left. Worked like a charm, until I installed Gigastudio. Now it reboots itself whenever it’s the most inconvenient for me.

    2) I finally fixed the futon! And it only took me several months to get around to it. I figure I can get at least another 5 years out of that thing, or sell it for quick cash–whichever comes first.

    3) The other day Eric Googled my name and found a link to your website for one of my songs. He was blocked from downloading it at work so I had to do it for him. While I was downloading, I was reading all the little “production notes” that you had written for all of my songs to help promote them. I had forgotten all about those, and I gotta say, I was touched! Then I was embarrassed. Then deeply ashamed. And then my computer rebooted itself.

    4) Everyone here at the apartment misses you, and when I say “everyone”, I mostly mean me. I’ve found that neither of my new roommates can hold a candle to your prowess in computer troubleshooting, repairing stuff, or spaghetti westerns. Plus, neither of them ever buys any cool electronics for the apartment. ABSOLUTELY WORTHLESS

    Happy Birthday, Paul…

    Mark

  • Hey, Paul, Happy birthday. This will be one to remember. Have been enjoying your blog and especially this last round of pics. Between Africa and India, ErinRose is only a few shots away from being the most immunized individual in the world. Best wishes, Scott

  • Happy B-Day! Don’t drink the water.

  • HI PAUL!

    HAPPY BIRTHDAY! ¡FELIZ CUMPLEA?OS! BUON CUMPLEANNO!

    Wishing you a wonderful day!

    Thank you for sharing all those fun photos. You and ErinRose look great – glad to hear both of you had a good time! That fish tank – is incredible!

    Paul, you are doing such a great job! Take care and enjoy your experience!

    Cariñosamente,

    Patrick & Gloria

  • Happy Birthday, honey!! Wish I was there to celebrate with you, but instead I will eat some cake from Aroma in your honor! :)
    xo er

  • Paul,
    this is Rand. Happy Birthday! Your mother will telephone you tomorrow.

  • grandpa and grandma blair

    HAPPY BIRTHDAY PAUL. GLAD YOU ARE BACK AND VERY GLAD YOU HAD A BREAK AND ENJOYED YOUR TIME OFF. WE SENT YOUR DAD YOUR BIRTHDAY CARD AND GRANDPA DIDN’t FORGET THE $2.00 BILL. WE CELERATED OUR 62 YEARS OF MARRIAGE YESTERDAY. WHERE DID ALL THE TIME GO. LOVE AND BEST WISHES FROM US.

  • Happy birthday Paul!

  • hey paul,
    happy birthdays!

    hope you’re doing well half way around the world.

    take cares,
    -norbert.

  • Paul Blair! Happy Birthday! Sounds like Kenya is intense. Sounds like you had a good time with ErinRose in town. Looking forward to reading more!

    JOHN

  • Paul B!! I’m late to the game on this one, but Happy Birthday! I really enjoy reading this blog. I can’t wait till I quit Tech Services Manager and join the Peace Corps myself (read: go work at Starbucks). Those kids are lucky to have you! Have I said that before?

  • Gregory McCormick

    Happy Birthday, Paul Blair! Miss you ol’ friend. Hope all is well.

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