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Scary Stories to Tell in Mombasa

This story is the reason that I had originally decided to hold off on updating my blog for a while.  There were a few people who I wanted to tell the story to personally first, so they wouldn’t read about it and get worried.  It’s actually a pretty short story, and it goes like this:

A few months ago a friend and I were riding in a matatu.  We had gone out a late dinner because we were in the library with my students until their bedtime (9PM).  Dinner was good, and we were on our way back.  We got off the matatu at its normal stop closest to my house, at the intersection of my school’s street and the nearby main road.  Within a matter a seconds of our matatu driving away, I noticed that a man was walking toward me.  His body language suggested that he was adamant about something, but he said nothing, and did nothing initially but grab my arm.  Arm-grabbing is much more common here, generally speaking, so it was easy to imagine that this could have been a drunk or crazy man who could just be ignored.  It became clear rather quickly, however, that this was not the case, and the man was refusing to let go of me, and was in fact pulling me off of the sidewalk and into the road, and, in fact, toward the back of a truck.  I looked over at my friend, and another man was pulling him toward the truck as well.  At this point, my struggling became more spastic and I shouted things like “What are you doing?” and “This is not OK!”  It was also around this time that I saw a police officer on the sidewalk, watching.  Of course I only had a moment to process this, and by this point the struggle was fully in the middle of the road, and due to some turn of events, I found myself free of my abductor.  I ran over to my friend, who was a this point missing his shirt, which had been pulled off by the man who was still dragging him toward the truck.  I sloppily threw the weight of my arms onto his, so that the two people separated and my friend fell onto the asphalt.  He got up and wisely announced, “Paul, RUN!”  So I took off the one sandal I still had on my feet and we ran back to my school, about a minute away.

The end.

Not exactly, of course.  There was some followup with Peace Corps and the police, and the most likely explanation for the whole thing was that the police hire goons to hang off the backs of trucks and capture people without warning or explanation, and then take them to jail to demand bribes, which is reassuring, since kidnappings have occurred in Kenya’s capital, but the explanation is only somewhat reassuring, since it changes my opinion of my neighborhood police from incompetent to malicious.

I did let this event bother me for some time, and I still fear that I might punch someone who grabs me in town, even if they just want to sell me some trousers.  That being said, at the time of this writing, it’s just a story long past, and it doesn’t really affect my day-to-day except that I favor door-to-door transportation after the sun goes down.

The good news is that the morning after this happened, we went back to the scene of the crime and I recovered my sandal and my friend got his shirt back as well.  So nothing was lost, and knowledge was gained… a win-win!

7 replies on “Scary Stories to Tell in Mombasa”

Ho. Lee. Crap.

Well I’m glad you’re all right, man…I’d been wondering why you hadn’t updated the blog in a while. Hope everything is going well otherwise…

By the way, around when will you be returning to the US? Seems like it’s not too far off…

Missed your blog updates, but I was expecting this one so you could move on to other “stories”. I imagine this scenario clearly, many times (as I have been there). Hope the rest of the year brings better experiences. Leaving for the Italian festival in 1/2 hour XOXOXOXOXOXO

This is the third such story I have heard this month – specifically of the Mombasa police harassing and even trying to capture foreigners. Perhaps its time for a KTN feature.

Glad you are ok.

Hi Paul,

Im sorry to hear about your frightening experience, ive seen this happen before in Kongowea, Mombasa. Where exactly did this happen? Send me an mail Paul, would be interesting to chat to you.

Im a friend of Will Ruddick’s, an Irish VSO volunteer and something similar happened to me last december. I live beside the central post office in Mombasa and, foolishly left my apartment alone at 12.30am to buy credit outside the central post office. Two uniformed cops with machine guns came up from an alley way and started aggressively shouting at me, accusing me of smoking weed, refusing to identify themselves, they tried to plant something in my pocket and then tried to drag me down a dark alleyway. I was really frightened at this stage so I defended myself and got free and I managed to run onto the lit street but they caught me again. I created a big scene, this subdued them a bit, they hand cuffed me, brought me to the police station, interrogated and threatened me and finally released me. Im pursuing the case now with a human rights NGO as i got these thug’s names and i dont want them to do this again.

As safe an all as Mombasa is, the cops are the ones you gotta watch out for, especially at night, try not to be alone although, it didn’t help Paul much!! Pole!

Paul, I’m glad you are ok. I can’t image how scared you must have been. Stay safe, we will keep you in our prayers.

I am Kenyan, I lived in Mombasa for 5 years and this has never happened to me or anyone I know.

1. Don’t go walking around at 2 am
2. When someone grabs your hand or gets too close for comfort shout and raise absolute hell.
3. The police are not your friends, stay away from them.

Stay safe

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